This method is undoubtedly one of the most time-consuming to get a bonsai. However, if you know exactly what to do you can obtain a reasonable tree in just 4 or 5 years. In my opinion, this is the most rewarding method for developing bonsai. From a "lifeless" seed, grows a tree over which we have "total control" to make a bonsai.
Most of the times, people do not get good results in the reproduction of trees by this method, they don't born or they die prematurely. There are several factors that influence birth rates, including some factors outside of our control. However, if the seed is of good quality and you follow the right steps, you will get more plants than you need and at reduced costs. The method indicated below is the one I use in practice with acceptable birth rates. It results from the study of various documents and some experience.
You can collect your own seeds investigating suitable trees nearby. Should be collected just before fall and should be dried and stored in a cool, dry and dark place.
Another method of obtaining seeds, although less cheap, is to buy them. They are easily purchased in the Internet and the species available are endless. The methods of collection and storage are also better, improving the results. Some time ago I put in google the phrase "seeds on-line" and the first result was a British company, Chiltern seeds. After reviewing other results it seemed that this would be the wiser. I did an order and what is my surprise when after some problems with my bank card I am informed that the seeds would be sent anyway. So it was, three days after I received the seeds and a paper catalogue. Finally I did the payment and, since then, I have no need to look for another supplier. They offer a wide range of species, properly stored and shipped. They also include a guide to sowing. I am not saying that they have the best price or the best seeds, i'm just sharing a good experience that is deserved by their professionalism and good service. Most of my trees were born from chiltern seeds.
To prevent the seeds to germinate before the winter and thus have little chance of surviving, Mother Nature has endowed them with a mechanism of dormancy.
This mechanism avoids that seeds germinate without pass through a period of low temperatures and humidity - the winter. When the temperature begins to rise in spring, the seeds have gone through a period of wear on the casing that protects the embryo. Thus, it is easier for water to penetrate in the seed which, together with air temperature will promote a series of chemical reactions that result in germination. This process is not totally controlled and becomes a barrier to tree reproduction by this method.
Stratification is the process that tries to get over the seed dormancy. In this process the seeds are submitted to a period of low temperatures and humidity during a certain period of time facilitating their germination after that. The procedure is: I put the seeds in a moist plastic bag on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator door where the temperature is higher than at the top of it (of course, your refrigerator may be different ). I leave the seeds there for 2 weeks. At the end of 2 weeks I put them on the top shelf, where they stay over more 2 weeks. It is important to stir the seeds in the bag regularly. Then again I put them on the bottom shelf for the same period after which they are almost ready to sow. This process takes six weeks although this period is not restricted, can opt to make it more progressive, if you have more shelves:) or take a little longer at each stage.
It is not advisable to submit seeds to the ice as it can be harmful for some of them. After this step dip the seeds in a vial with water for 6 hours. After that they are ready to sow.
I usually do the sowing in perforated plastic trays or trays that are divided into small modules. Whatever your choice, remember that you should wash the material using a solution of water with a mild bleach solution (then, pass with clean water.) The next step is to prepare the soil. There are several recipes, and each person uses the one that gives him better results. Normally I use 50% sand and 50% turf, creating balance between drainage and moisture. Mix well and fill the trays, let few inches from the top.
Press the soil to be slightly tight and leveled. Make a first watering to moisten it. Distribute the seeds evenly and with enough space between them in order to germinate properly. Then I cover the seeds with a layer about three times its thickness and I water the surface. One of the most important aspects at this stage is the amount of water that the soil has, is very important to be moist, never soggy. Excess water deprives the seeds from the air, essential for germination and on the other hand encourages the development of various fungi. Finally, I do a solution of fungicide and apply on the surface (I think at this stage any fungicide is ok). I cover the tray with a glass or transparent plastic to make a "greenhouse" helping to keep the temperature at higher values ??(be carefull that they do not rise too much). Protect the tray in a place where it will not receive the direct rays of the sun.
Now is time to wait. Take care to keep the soil moist (never let it dry or soak). You must also apply fungicide every two weeks.
The small seedlings should not be disturbed until they have two or three pairs of leaves. At that time they can be transplanted. That is, holding them by the leaves, lift them with a chopstick and plant separately in small pots so they can freely grow. The soil used in this phase may contain, in addition to sand and peat, a little garden soil that provide other components to young plants.
Cutting
There are two types of cuttings: the hardwood and softwood. The first ones are used to propagate evergreen species while the other are used to reproduce deciduous species.
Hardwood cuttings are taken in the spring using material that grew last year (alternatively you can do it in autumn).
Softwood cuttings are taken in June / July with material that began their growth in the spring.
The cuttings should be about 5 cm long, should be cutted at a 45º angle with a very sharp knife. You should leave one-third of the foliage (one or two leaves on deciduous) and place them inclined in a mixture of 50% sand and 50% peat. The soil must remain moist and a glass or plastic cover will prevent the cuttings from drying out. Obviously they must be protected from wind and direct sunlight.
Air layering is a controlled method of something that happens in nature when a branch touches the ground and roots grow at that point. As the supply of water and minerals continues to flow from roots to leaves, the branch's survival is assured. The middle of Spring is the rigth time to apply this method. The procedure consists of the following:
Choose a branch that has good shape to become bonsai;
With a sharp knife make two parallel cuts around the edge of the branch. The cuts should be separated by a distance equal to the diameter of the branch and should be deep enough to allow remove a ring of bark and nothing else;
Then remove the ring of bark around the edges. The roots will be formed in the superior cut where the phloem, interrupted, will generate new tissue. Hormones may be applied in this area, although they are not essential.
The next step is to create conditions for the roots grow. Wet peat, and with a plastic and wire, create a ball around the ring in the bark. The closed and moist environment enhances the formation of roots.
The air layer is ready, now is time to wait for the roots. In some species, such as wisteria, can take only a few weeks, others may take up to two years. If you use a transparent plastic you can see when the roots grow, but this kind of plastic is not convenient to use because it allows light to enter. A good solution is to use a black plastic on the transparent, so it is easy to see when the roots grow and the turf is protected from sunlight.
When you see that there are enough roots you can cut it below the peat ball. You must remove the plastic with the utmost care and plant in a large pot.
You should tie the plant to the pot or to a stake, shelter it from wind and direct sunlight until it shows signs of growth.
You should only feed when it is growing vigorously.
This is the method used to reproduce plants where you want to maintain their characteristics and can not propagate them by another vegetative method. There are several ways to apply this method, however for bonsai has a huge limitation, which is the scar that forms in the area of the graft. But for some varieties this is the only chance you have.
In nature there are trees that due to severe conditions are naturally atrophied. Poor soil, rocky, water shortages, excessive sun or shade are factors that can limit tree growth. It is in Nature that is the best material for bonsai. The dead wood and twisted trunks always have a glow, especially compared to the trees created from other sources. However, do not be fooled. It is not easy to find this stuff and when it appears is good to confirm that the trunk does not extend inland soil without roots capable of ensuring their survival. Before collecting ensure that the tree will be fully able to survive. IF NOT, DO NOT REMOVE THE TREE!
Obviously must have a shovel, a plastic bag (or pot), peat, scissors and a saw. Start by digging a trench in circumference around the plant to check the existing roots. If you find fibrous roots (fine) then it is safe to lift the plant. After digging the trench, will have a ball of earth containing many roots that will feed the plant in the next weeks.
It is important to keep this ball intact, you should not remove such soil to not disturb the roots. To remove the tree you will have to to cut the roots that lie underneath. Carefully tilt the plant to one side and with the scissors (you may need the saw) cut the roots that go deep. Now that the plant has completely free, put it in the bag along with peat moss or soil from the site for repot at home. The ideal would be to take a large pot so the tree will be potted on site. As you know, this process is quite stressful for the tree because you are reducing the number of roots, you should balance the number of branches to prevent that sweating is greater than the absorption capacity. It is therefore important that you make a pruning to balance the tree. Finally, it is important to note that you should protect it from wind and direct sun for some weeks. Keep the soil moist and fertilize only when you note strong growth.
The bonsai in supermarkets and hypermarkets are usually kept on bad conditions. When they reach the hands of new owners have little chance of survival, not to mention the aesthetic aspects. There is no valid advice or instructions in these locations. No wonder then, that when someone buys a bonsai in these conditions is more difficult to keep it alive. This certainly gives a bad reputation to bonsai.
It is extremely important to carefully choose the place where you buy bonsai. You should examine not only aspects of health and growing but also the aesthetics of bonsai. The tree is attractive? The style chosen was well applied? The trunk is attractive and the superficial roots are of good quality? These are some questions that should be answered.
Then the questions of cultivation: The foliage has spots of disease or other pests? Or is it bright green? Shake lightly and make sure the tree is fixed. If plant oscillate a lot, forget and move on to the next. If you can, pick up the bonsai pot and check the roots with your own eyes. The roots show the health of plant. Should be white, should not be too compact dry or wet and should show signs of growth. If so, the plant is healthy and you will be buying a good specimen.
Depending on the species, the bonsai should be placed in a location that simulates their natural conditions and you should provide everything it needs to stay in shape.
